Magnums for a sense of occassion

Bring out the big guns

Christmas, bank holidays, Jeff from accounting’s leaving do; there’s always a reason to celebrate. And what better way to make sure you’re always prepared than to stock up on magnums? For it is nigh-on undeniable that there is something irresistibly exceptional about popping open a magnum of decent kit. 

And when we say 'decent' we don't use that as a shorthand for 'expensive'. The Grezard, for example, weighs in at a pound-for-pound terrific value of £33. 

So listen. Next time you’re celebrating, don't waste good time opening two bottles when you could make your life far easier by uncorking a magnum. Does that make sense?

WHAT: Graciano, Tempranillo, Viura - Dominio del Carabo - 4 Elementos 'Fuego Tradition' - Rioja, Spain - 2016 - £27

PRODUCER: Gonzalo Rondriguez is a ball of energy who founded his own bodegas after tiring of the larger ‘factories’ he was working for. He and his friends the Laorden’s, who own over 90 hectares of Alavesa and Alta vines, set about picking the best 9 ha, all of which are farmed organically, to give Gonzalo some of the highest, oldest and frankly best vineyard sites in Rioja.

WHERE: Rioja. You know the deal by now.

WHY: A big old blend here - Graciano, Tempranillo, Viura. Graciano and Viura contribute greatly to this fresh, juicy red. 12 months barrel ageing has drawn out bright ruby notes of raspberry and liquorice. Most of all it's just fun to be able to offer a magnum of great wine at a very good price.

WHAT: Chardonnay - Daniel & Julien Barraud - Pouilly-Fusse 'Alliance' Veilles Vignes - Burgundy, France - 2018 - £59.50

PRODUCER: Julien Barraud, whose family first bought vines in Pouilly-Fuissé in 1912. It's been passed from father to son ever since. Daniel is the 5th generation to look after the 8.5 hectare estate.

WHERE: Pouilly-Fuissé is in Southern Burgundy and the grapes come from 4 vineyard sites around the village of Vergisson, between two quite dramatic cliffs that rise up out of the earth. As most cliffs do, we guess.

WHY: While the giddy heights of the Cote d'Or may be out of our league for everyday drinking this Chardonnay has all the tell tale signs of a posh Chardonnay. Medium body with a bit of weight on the palate. Ripe apple and citrus with a creamy, button mushroom note that is lifted by a mineral finish and lively acidity.Can't go wrong.

WHAT: Nebbiolo - Diego Conterno - Barolo Monforte d'Alba - Piedmont, Italy - 2017 - £154

PRODUCER: A father and son duo, Diego and Stefano work their 7.5 ha of vines with a fine eye for detail and respect for the traditional ways of yore.

WHERE: Barolo, Piedmont, the foot of the Alps- hallowed wine ground where Powerful falls in love with Delicate at creates a blissful, vinous harmony.

WHY: Pure, unbridled joy it is to drink this wine. Big Nebbiolo notes of earthy earthiness coupled with light floral fragrance. Restrained power with finesse.

WHAT: Pinot Noir - Didier Fornerol - Cotes de Nuits Villages - Burgundy, France - 2018 - £64

PRODUCER: Didier Fornerol is a gentle, soft-spoken soul. He used to be the winemaker at the illustrious Dom. de l’Arlot across the road in fancy-pants Nuits St Georges. He took over his family estate in the early 1990s.

WHERE: We are in Burgundy, of course: The Golden Cote. As you head down the excellent D974 through the Cote de Nuits, its easy to floor it straight past the three hamlets that make up the bulk of the AOP Cote de Nuits Villages, they are the last hurrah of the Cote de Nuits before it becomes limestone quarries. Take a moment. Stop and refresh yourself.

WHY: This wine is the poster child for light, fragant Pinot Noir with a touch of red fruits and a gentle hum of forest floor. An approachable classic.

WHAT: Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cab Sav - Chateau La Croix de Grezard - Lussac Saint Emilion - Bordeaux, France - 2016 - £33

PRODUCER: Continuing the good old Bordeaux tradition of English-owned chateaux, Grezard is home to the assertively named Bill Boulter.

WHERE: Lussac is one of St Emilion's satellite villages. Out of this world! Like a satellite.

WHY: Sorry if this is a little inside-baseball, but cast your minds back to the final scene in Sideways, in which Miles "I'm not drinking any f****** Merlot" Raymond sits drinking a bottle of '61 Cheval Blanc in a burger joint. The visual gag for mega-nerds is of course that Cheval Blanc *is* predominantly Merlot, coming as it does from St. Emilion. So here we are. It's not quite Cheval Blanc but it is a classic right-bank blend of Merlot, Cab Franc and a dash of Cab Sav. With 4 months barrel-ageing it has all the toasty, tobacco leaf and sandlewood notes with a sprinkling of plum for good measure.

WHAT: Riesling - Fritz Haag Brauneberger - Juffer Riesling Kabinet - Mosel, Germany - 2020 - £61.50

PRODUCER: Weingut Fritz Haag has for decades been in the top tier of quality German wine production, thanks largely to efforts of the late, legendary Wilhelm Haag, who headed up the Mosel VDP for the best part twenty years. Which, given the time the Haags have been about is pretty efficient work - Oliver Haag is the latest Haag in a line of Haags to manage the Haag estate since 1605. That’s a whole lot of Haags.

WHERE: Mosel Valley, Germany. These are some of the steepest vineyards known to man, only a German work ethic would think it a good idea to grow grapes here.

WHY: A kiss of sweetness with nectarines, citrus blossom and a flinty saline finish. This is a genuinely ethereal, breathtaking Riesling. Just totally pure and elegant and…dare we say ‘perfect’. Those who claim not to like sweet wines won’t shy away from this, the laser-sharp acidity giving all residual sugar a razor’s edge.

WHAT: Albarino - Zarate - Albarino - Rias Baixas, Spain - 2021 - £46

PRODUCER: Eulogio Pomares- attention to detail doesn't even come close. The winery itself has been going since 1920. He's been there since 2000.

WHERE: The most westerly part of Spain, above Portugal, exposed to the Atlantic, which makes for some pretty brutal winter weather

WHY: Alvarinho, in the right hands and some attention to detail, can make truly great wine. This is a great example of how- dry, weighty and full of intensity from the low yields coming from the 11 small vineyard sites

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