Fortified wines? Sweet!
Fortified Wines for Strength This Winter
While we would prefer not to ascribe certain times of year to certain wines (good wine isn't seasonal! Why shouldn't you enjoy a lovely glass of rosé in January!) we do accept the reality of how most people prefer to drink. And can we, hand on heart, say we often feel like a nice glass of port on a balmy June day?....We can not.
All of which is to say, the season of fortified wines and glasses of sticky deliciousness is upon us, and we're going to make the most of it. A glass of Madeira and a piece of cake for elevenses? Count us in. A friably dry, mildly saline boost of Manzanilla before lunch? Yes please. A splash of late harvest Tokaji with a little duck liver parfait? If we must. Blue cheese and Sauternes? Hell yes. Mince pies and Pedro Ximenez? Now we're talking.
You get the picture. It's Winter. Let's enjoy it.
WHAT: Moscatel "Dorado" - Cesar Florido - Jerez , Spain - £13
PRODUCER: Cesar Florido, not to be confused with the founder of the winery Cesar Florido back in 1887. Old School doesn't even come close
WHERE: Chipiona, outside of Jerez, just North along the Coast from Cadiz
WHY: Cesar Florido makes sherry as well, and sells a lot of his own grapes to the big sherry houses, but Moscatel is what he is really known for, and what he really wants to make. Nutty ,sweet, figgy, golden syrup. (Ian almost cried with joy when he tasted it)
WHAT: Touriga Nacional, Tinta Amarela, Blend - Sandeman `Quinta do Seixo` Port - Douro, Portugal - 2013 - £35.50
PRODUCER: For port geeks, the Sandeman Quinta do Seixo estate needs little introduction. They’ve been knocking out the good stuff since 1790.
WHERE: The Cima Corgo sub-region of the Douro, just downstream from the village of Pinhão. Schist soils provide subterraneous avenues for the vines to dig deep for sustenance during the increasingly hot summers.
WHY: A 2013 Port that offers rich notes of cherries, plum, kirsch, oak spice and dark chocolate on the palate. Try pairing with chocolate-based puddings or punchier cheeses.
WHAT: Pedro Ximenez - Valdespino - PX 'El Candado' - Jerez, Spain - NV - £16
PRODUCER: This is one of the oldest bodegas in Jerez, with a history of sherry production going back six centuries, and, going further back, tales of knights, battles, and kings. The Netflix series must surely be in production by this point.
WHERE: The Pedro Ximénez grapes for the 'El Candado' are sourced from the Montilla-Moriles region, which is further inland, hotter and less humid than Jerez. The grapes are 'raisined' on grass mats in the sunshine, much like us on holiday.
WHY: Dark mahogany in colour, the 'El Candado' is pronounced on the nose with complex aromas of dried fruits, raisins, toffee, dark chocolate, coffee and spice. Full and luscious on the palate, it is smooth and sweet with a sumptuous and lingering finish. Sumptuous, we tell you.
WHAT: Furmint, Harslevelu, Muscat - Mad Tokaji Late Harvest - Tokaj, Hungary - 2017 - £24
PRODUCER: A bunch of Madmen.
WHERE: We're in the wonderfully named village of Mád, in the heart of the Tokaj region. These vineyards were shaped by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago, and are world famous for the exquisite sweet wines produced here. Though that's not to say you can't also find some dry and deliciously mineral wines, too.
WHY: Back in the days of yore - this was THE drink of choice for European royalty - intensely sweet and concentrated notes of dried apricot and candied ginger with a lively uplifting finish. A king among sweet wines.
WHAT: Semillon, Muscadelle - Jour de Fruit - Dom. de l'Ancienne Cure - Monbazillac, France - 2018 - £12
PRODUCER: Christian Roche, who inherited some vines in 1984 which he's spent a long time converting to organic viticulture.
WHERE: Monbazillac - east of Bordeaux and north of Toulouse. In that bit of France which is beautiful, but you're not quite sure what it does or where it is.
WHY: For its lightness and freshness. It's sweet but not cloying - a refreshing, satisfying, have-another kind of pudding wine.
WHAT: Furmit - Disznoko - Tokaji Edes Szamorodni, 'Dorgo Vineyard', Hungary - 2017 - £25.50
PRODUCER: The name Disznókő translates as 'the rock of the wild boar' and first made an apearance in 1413 and refers to a large rock sat atop a small hill overlooking the vineyards. As with much of Tokaji, Disznókő's fortunes suffered under nationalisation during the Communist era. But, in 1992, it was purchased by AXA Millésimes (owners of Château Pichon Longueville and Quinta do Noval, amongst others) who have reinvigorated Disznókő and put in the love and investment required to return it to the top rank of Tokaji estates.
WHERE: We're in the heart of the Tokaj region. These vineyards were shaped by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago, and are world famous for the exquisite sweet wines produced here. Though that's not to say you can't also find some dry and deliciously mineral wines, too.
WHY: Dried apricot and candied ginger predominate. The grapes are fully botrytised - our old friend noble rot - which, among other things, contributes that complex, truffly, honeyed, umami edge. It’s worth reminding yourself that back in the day, sweet Tokaji was the preferred beverage of European royalty. Who can blame them.
WHAT: Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc - Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes 1er Grand Cru Classe - Bordeaux, France - 2008 - £39
PRODUCER: Château Suduiraut, in Sauternes, goes back centuries. After the total destruction of the property by the Duke d’Epernon in the 1600s, Count Blaise de Suduiraut replanted the vineyard and restored the estate to its former glory. The Château is a superb example of 18th century architecture. Aristocratic, classical and bright in style, it is surrounded by charming gardens designed by Le Nôtre - the fella who designed Versailles. Quite the spot.
WHERE: We’re next door to Chateau d’Yquem and as far as we’re concerned you couldn’t really get a cigarette paper between the two, in terms of the quality produced. There’s a reason this part of Bordeaux is synonymous with the world’s greatest sweet wines.
WHY: White flower blossom, lemon curd, white peach, citrus and limestone seem to all find their way out of the glass and up your schnoz, with all the focus and intensity of a footballer lining up a penalty. On the palate it’s viscous and compelling and honeyed, but with that all-essential acidity to balance things impeccably.
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