Malbec Vs Merlot
April 17th is International Malbec Day - obviously - and so we thought we’d take a brief look at Malbec and its spiritual ally, Merlot, and consider them as deeply as a short blog permits.
For certain...well we won’t use the word ’snobs’ so let’s just say ‘people’, Malbec and Merlot are two grapes that are best avoided.
They festoon supermarket shelves and the cheaper ends of wine lists, and are all fruit and oak and no nuance.
Never mind that they are two of the six noble black grapes permitted in red Bordeaux wines (the other four being, as you know, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Carmenère), and that they’ve played their part in some of the finest wines available to humanity.
You can see where we’re going with this. As far as we’re concerned, there is no such thing as a bad grape variety - though some are harder to love than others, of course. It’s a question of the right grape, in the right place, in the right hands.
Which brings us to these four beautiful examples of these two grapes, from four of our favourite producers.
Domaine Bousquet’s “Hunuc Reserve” Malbec oozes excellence.
The vines sit in the so-called ‘foothills' of the Andes, in a plum position 1200 metres above sea level. That’s some high-level grape-growing.
Hot days and chilly nights means happy grapes that aren’t over-concentrated or lacking in complexity. There’s an almost mushroomy quality to the nose, with plenty of blackberry and a deep sense of ‘yes please’.
Of course you can put this down with a steak, though don’t shy away from a good tagine or indeed a bar of very dark chocolate.
But Malbec did not originate in its now synonymous Argentina.
It came from France, specifically Cahors in the south-west, where phylloxera all but wiped it out in the 19th century.
From there it made its way to South America, but it kept some roots, as it were, in France.
And the K-Lys Malbec from Clos Troteligotte is one such example. Inky, rich, dark fruit-led deliciousness. Crack this open with Sunday lunch and wait for people to shake your hand.
It must be acknowledged that Malbec, while permitted, is seldom used in Bordeaux.
The same can not be said for Merlot, whose profile’s enduring relevance is highlighted in the film Sideways, which singlehandedly decimated Merlot sales while ending on the side-eye move of having the protagonist drinking a bottle of Cheval Blanc, whose principle grape is…Merlot. It just won’t go away.
Which is good news, because it’s a great grape. Granted, it is most sensibly used in a blend because it is very fruit laden.
We currently list a chic and correct St Emilion from Chateau Grand Barrail that despite its 10 years in barrel and bottle is still powerful and robust.
Claret fans rejoice, claret sceptics give it a whirl. The Merlot is supported by the graphite and bell pepper of Cabernet Franc and you’ll love it.
Finally, head to Australia’s Margaret River for a 2018 Cabernet-Merlot from the Leeuwin Estate.
A real ripper, as they say, with pencil shavings and blackcurrants and lavender and spice. Heady and reassuring.
Malbec vs. Merlot - what are you picking?
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